If you are thinking of going to the Azores, my ultimate 5-day itinerary will tell you the best things to do and places to see in São Miguel. Plan the perfect trip to these beautiful, sub-tropical, volcanic islands with the help of my comprehensive travel guide to the Azores with information on the best time to visit, what to do, where to stay and how to get there.
The Azores could very well be one of Europe’s best-kept secrets. The unparalleled landscape of verdant forests, flourishing fields, natural hot springs, rugged coastline, blue lakes and a deeper blue ocean along with a subtropical climate make visiting these islands an unforgettable experience. Having recently returned from there, you can take my word on it 😀
An archipelago made of 9 volcanic islands scattered in the Atlantic Ocean, the Azores is an autonomous region of Portugal. Each of these islands is different from the other in terms of landscape and character and it is possible to go island hopping using regional flights or ferries.
When to Visit
The best time to visit the Azores is April to September (Spring and Summer). Travelling options between the islands are more frequent, the weather is warmer, and flowers are blooming all over. April to June is supposed to be a great time for whale watching.
Having said that, Mr AW and I visited São Miguel for a week in last week of March. Travelling in the off-peak season not only enabled us to enjoy lower prices (flights/hotels/car rentals) but to also enjoy the place in a slower, quieter manner.
Getting there
The biggest island, São Miguel, is connected by air to the mainland Portugal, UK, US and Canada. Azores Airlines, SATA and Ryanair fly in and out of Ponta Delgada.
We took a Ryanair flight from London to Ponta Delgada, via Lisbon because at that time Ryanair was only operating direct flights to the Azores once a week (Saturday). This way we also got a chance to explore Lisbon, even if it was just for half a day. While returning, we took a direct Ryanair flight back to London.
Where to Stay
We decided to stay in Ponta Delgada itself and chose Azor Hotel which is ranked as #1 on Tripadvisor. It offers 5* luxury at quite affordable prices and is a member of Design Hotels. The design elements in this hotel are absolutely stunning and are inspired by the sea, landscape and volcanic nature of the Azores. It faces the marina, is conveniently located close to the town centre (10 minutes’ walk) and is only 4 km from the airport.
Trip Advisor | Booking.com | Hotels.com
If you’re looking for self-catering apartments, there are some lovely options on Airbnb like this super stylish apartment or this simple, cosy one. Both are quite affordable, centrally located and have parking available.
Weather
The temperatures weren’t too high, staying between 12 to 15 °C (it can reach 25 °C in summer). It was definitely a lot sunnier than London 😉 As is the characteristic of typical island weather, it would get very windy or suddenly rain or the sky could get heavily laden with clouds obscuring the views. We found that we had to be prepared for changing weather conditions and that a wind-proof, rain-proof jacket was necessary.
What to pack
Ponta Delgada has a very casual vibe and I knew that most of our time will be spent on outdoorsy activities. So, I packed t-shirts, jeans, a pair of shorts, jacket (that protects from both wind and rain), trainers, bathing suit and sunglasses. For toiletries that I packed for the Azores, read my post What’s in my Toiletries Bag.
Getting around
São Miguel is made for road tripping. I would highly recommend getting yourself some wheels to get around and make the most of all the attractions this island has to offer. Car rentals are very affordable in the Azores, especially if you drive a manual car vs an automatic one. We pre-booked our car rental with Hertz and simply picked it up from the airport in Ponta Delgada.
What to do
In our 5 days in Ponta Delgada, we managed to pack in a lot of activity and sight-seeing and yet have the evenings to ourselves, simply chilling in the room or lounging in the rooftop bar at the hotel. Our days started early-ish, with a fantastic all-inclusive breakfast spread at the hotel and we’d be ready to leave for the day’s adventures after having filled our tummies to our hearts’ contents.
So, it is easily possible to follow my 5-day São Miguel itinerary as a 3-day itinerary too, 3 full action-packed days. Not that I’d recommend it 😊 The Azores is a place where things are slow and are meant to be savoured, where you don’t need to rush from one place to the other, where people take the time to talk to you and where the scenery is so dramatic that you have to take a moment to let it sink in, let it get etched in your memory.
Also, please note that we had to be flexible about the itinerary depending upon the weather conditions.
Itinerary
Day 1
It was almost midnight when we reached Ponta Delgada and simply took a taxi to our hotel. We decided to spend the next day exploring and getting familiar with Ponta Delgada itself. Half a day is ideal for that and we walked to all the attractions. Later in the evening, we picked up a car rental from the airport for our remaining stay.
Read: How to spend a day in Ponta Delgada
Day 2
On day 2, we hit the western side of the island towards the Sete Cidades region. It was the only day when we started much earlier in the morning (8:30 am) because we were going to have a long day.
Miradouro da Boca do Inferno
Our first stop was Miradouro da Boca do Inferno. A short hike up some crude stairs and a dirt pathway, lead up to one of the best viewpoints in São Miguel and the Azores. Aptly called Hell’s Mouth Viewpoint, this vast caldera was formed from volcanic eruptions and offers panoramic views over the Sete Cidades region and the three crater lakes – Lagoa Azul, Lagoa de Santiago and Lagoa Rasa.
By the time we reached the viewpoint, the weather had completely turned. It got extremely windy and the clouds had obscured the entire view. Can you imagine my disappointment? We decided to move on to the next stop and try our luck later by returning to the viewpoint on our way back to Ponta Delgada. It was the perfect decision because we did get lucky, the weather got better, and we were able to enjoy the dramatic landscape and stunning views that Miradouro da Boca do Inferno is famous for.
Note: While driving from Ponta Delgada to Sete Cidades, look for the signs for Lagoa do Canário. Once you see the sign and a small gate off the side of the road, drive inside. Follow the dirt road straight into the woods, towards the Miradouro (there will be a sign for it) till you reach what looks like the end of the road, you will see some picnic tables and stairs on the left side. You can park the car on the right side.
Entrance: Free
Car Park: Yes
Lagoa do Canário
It was now time to turn back the car towards Lagoa do Canário which we had passed on our way earlier. We parked the car near the sign (you will see it on the right) and took the steps down to the lake. It’s a quiet, serene lake reflecting the green colour of the surrounding foliage. It felt quite sheltered and made me realise how different two places can be although being just a few minutes’ distances apart.
Entrance: Free
Car Park: Yes
Miradouro da Vista do Rei
We then drove to Miradouro da Vista do Rei or the King’s Viewpoint. Although there was some construction work going on at the viewpoint itself, we were able to find a corner to see the unobstructed view over Sete Cidades and the lakes Lagoa Azul (Blue) and Lagoa Verde (Green). Even though it was still a bit cloudy, it was a sight to behold!
They are twin lakes created in the crater of a dormant volcano and are separated by a bridge. Lake Azul looks blue because it’s deeper and reflects the blue sky while Lake Verde, being shallow, appears green because it reflects the foliage underneath.
Legend has it that a young shepherd and a princess were lovers but couldn’t be together. The tears that they shed created these two lakes because one had blue eyes and the other green.
Entrance: Free
Car Park: Yes (off-street)
Hotel Monte Palace
Right next door to the viewpoint is a building that used to be a hotel in its glory days. Hotel Monte Palace is completely abandoned now and in a derelict condition. However, it’s possible to go in and up the floors. It almost felt spooky to be there but the view from the rooms was incredible.
By this time, the clouds had cleared and the colours of the lake looked even more vibrant. I don’t know why the hotel didn’t work and was abandoned but I would have absolutely loved to be a guest here and wake up to such an amazing scenery. Who wouldn’t?
Note: The building is a hazardous site and it’s important to be safe and careful.
Entrance: Free
Sete Cidades Village
After the abandoned hotel, we went to the Sete Cidades village. The drive to the village was lovely and we stopped at a couple of viewpoints along the way. The sleepy little village itself was very quiet and it almost felt like everything had come to a standstill. We spent some time at the St Nicolas Church and then decided to return to Ponta Delgada because we had a very exciting tour booked ahead.
Whale and Dolphin Watching
The Azores is famous for whale and dolphin watching because of its native species as well as the migrating ones. We kept an entire afternoon aside for an excursion in the ocean seeking these beautiful creatures in their wild domain. It was an unforgettable experience and a must-do activity in my opinion!
Read: Whale and Dolphin Watching Tour in the Azores
Mosteiros
After being around 3 hours in the ocean, we returned to our hotel to freshen up and change and then drive to Mosteiros for sunset. Lava rock structures jutting skywards from the ocean, a black sand beach and a turbulent rocky shore shape the dramatic landscape here. I had read that this area is famous for surfing and boasts of some natural pool formations. We did see some surfers but found it to be too windy and cold to get into the water.
Note: Miradouro da Ponta do Escalvado is a beautiful viewpoint near Mosteiros for sunset too if you don’t want to go all the way down to the beach.
Entrance: Free
Car Park: Yes
Day 3
On day 3, we headed to the eastern side of São Miguel island.
Miradouro da Ponta da Madrugada
Our original plan was to visit the Viewpoint of Madrugada at sunrise but let’s face it, that didn’t happen. Sleep and breakfast took a priority and that’s that 😉 A well-maintained viewpoint, this lookout offered panoramic views over the green cliffs and the endless blue ocean.
Note: If you are not the lazy type like us, try to come here early morning to catch the sunrise.
Entrance: Free
Car Park: Yes
Miradouro da Ponta do Sossego
Another viewpoint, just a few minutes drive from Madrugada, is the Viewpoint of Sossego. It had a big garden full of blooming flowers (sadly, no hydrangeas – it wasn’t the season yet) and, once again, beautiful views of the ocean and the steep cliffs. There were picnic tables and barbecue grills thus making it an ideal spot for some packed lunch.
Entrance: Free
Car Park: Yes
View from the Viewpoint of Boats and the Arnel Lighthouse
Farol do Arnel (Arnel Lighthouse) was the first lighthouse built in the Azores (19th century) in the most north-eastern part of São Miguel. It is possible to go down to the lighthouse, but the spiral road is extremely steep, and it is recommended to leave the car off the main road and walk down to the lighthouse. We did not go all the way down but saw the lighthouse from the Miradouro da Vista dos Barcos (Viewpoint of Boats).
Entrance: Free
Car Park: Yes
Furnas
Next, it was time to head for Furnas. Furnas region is very famous because here’s where you can see the geothermal activity on this volcanic island.
Caldeiras das Furnas
In Caldeiras das Furnas, you can see it in the form of mini-geysers with hot water bubbling and spurting out of holes in the ground leaving a trail of fumes and white smoke in the air. It reminded me of Yellowstone National Park, a very small-scale version of it.
Entrance: Free
Car Park: Yes
Lagoa das Furnas
Furnas lake is another major crater lake in São Miguel and this was the only place where we had to pay a very small fee for parking the car. The area is a nature reserve and very well maintained. There are wooden walkways to take you to the hot springs.
The highlight of this place is a unique local Azorean dish called Cozido das Furnas. It’s basically a stew made of an assortment of meat and vegetables made by putting these ingredients in a pot and lowering it underground into the holes of natural hot water. The meat and the vegetables cook in their own juices with the help of the steam thus getting a unique flavour and smell.
At around noon, you can observe people taking the pots out of the ground and sending them away to the village restaurants or residents.
Entrance: Free
Car Park: Yes, Paid
Note: If you are interested in a walking trail in this area or simply want to see an aerial view of the Furnas lake, do consider checking out Pico do Ferro.
Tony’s Restaurant
One of the best places to enjoy Cozido das Furnas (Portuguese Stew) in Furnas village is Tony’s Restaurant. We did not have a booking and simply tried to walk in. It was fine, and we were quickly seated. I won’t say that I particularly liked the peculiar taste of the stew and the portion is HUGE but it’s worth trying a dish that is so unique to the Azores.
Note: For vegetarians, it is possible to make a special request by calling a day earlier.
Address: Largo do Teatro 5, 9675-036, Furnas, Portugal
Car Park: Off-street
Terra Nostra
Our last activity for the day, Terra Nostra is a botanical garden in Furnas that has thousands of varieties of different plants and trees. The main attraction, however, is a large thermal swimming pool with temperatures maintained between 35 to 40 °C. The water in this pool is rich in minerals, especially iron, lending the characteristic muddy-yellow colour. By the end of a 30-minute soak, my swimsuit had turned yellow too 😉
Note: There are changing room, shower and toilet facilities. Bring your swimsuit, flip-flops and towel.
Entrance: 8€
Car Park: Off-street (it was a busy day and it took us quite long finding a parking space)
Day 4
Lagoa do Fogo
Lagoa do Fogo is the highest lake in São Miguel and is best viewed from Miradouro do Pico da Barrosa. The drive up to this viewpoint was quite exhilarating full of hairpin bends. When we reached the viewpoint, once again we were met with heavy clouds blocking the view of the lake. However, within a few minutes, the clouds moved away revealing the stunning blue-green colours of the shimmering lake surrounded by lush green cliffs.
There are walking trails and hiking options in the area and it is possible to walk all the way down to a white sand beach on the lake shore. However, we didn’t see any clear signs to get to the start of the trail which was very disappointing. We now wish we had done better research on the walking trail for Lake Fogo.
Entrance: Free
Car Park: Yes
Lagoa do Congro
Getting to Lagoa do Congro was not the easiest. There was a sign on the main road right at the point where we had to turn sharply onto a dirt road which seemed like it was not going anywhere. However, we did finally see another sign for the lake and that’s where we parked the car. An easy hike down the woods, the lake was a brilliant shade of green laced with the warm gold of the sunlight. It was a great spot to relax and enjoy the quietness and serenity.
Entrance: Free
Car Park: Yes
Our Lady of Peace Chapel
It was now time to drive to Vila Franca do Campo where Nossa Senhora da Paz or Our Lady of Peace Chapel is located. What is otherwise a very simple church is made striking by a 10-flight staircase symbolising the Ave Maria prayer.
Entrance: Free
Car Park: Yes
Islet of Vila Franca do Campo
An islet off the southern shore of São Miguel, the Islet of Vila Franca do Campo is part of the iconic and breathtaking landscape of the Azores. It is possible to take a ferry to the islet in the summer which meant we couldn’t go and explore the little island. We had to make do with seeing it from a distance and simply marvel at nature’s immense beauty.
Gorreana Tea Plantation
Did you know that the Azores is the only place in Europe where you can find tea plantations? The Gorreana has been producing tea since 1883 in São Miguel and we did not want to miss an opportunity to see the lovely green expanse of tea plants against the backdrop of the blue ocean.
Entrance: Free
Car Park: Yes
Miradouro de Santa Iria
While we were in Porto Formoso, our next stop was the Viewpoint of Santa Iria. This was hands down, my favourite lookout to see the spectacular northern coast of São Miguel. The drama of vertical ragged cliffs dropping straight into the ocean as waves crash against them is offset by a sapphire ocean and calm-invoking lush greenery. Can it get any better?
Entrance: Free
Car Park: Yes
Caldeira Velha
We ended Day 4 at Caldeira Velha in Ribeira Grande. It’s a scenic nature reserve that made us feel like we were transported to a tropical rainforest. The main attractions are natural thermal pools, one of them under a waterfall. Another day of exploring the island ended with a relaxing soak in thermal pools at 38 °C, surrounded by complete strangers 😉
Note: Changing room, toilet and locker facilities are available. Bring your swimsuit, flip-flops and towel.
Entrance: 8€
Car Park: Off-street
Day 5
We spent day 5 and our last day in the Azores holed up in the hotel because of rain. Had the weather been better, here’s what we would have liked to do:
Go back to Lagoa do Fogo and hike down to the beach
Salto do Cabrito
Ribeira dos Caldeirões Park
Although the Azores has managed to remain a hidden gem, it won’t be the case for too long. With direct flights to Ponta Delgada, the Azores is more accessible now and is bound to get more and more popular. I must admit though, a small, selfish (teeny-tiny… I promise) part of me wants it to remain exactly as it is now – unspoilt and pristine.
Pin it for later!
Did you enjoy my Azores travel guide? I hope you found my São Miguel itinerary useful and that it has inspired you to visit this little piece of paradise.
Cheers,
Ameeta xx
Such a great guide! Haven’t heard about this place before but the pictures really makes me want to learn more about this beautiful place. such detailed itinerary – thanks for doing all the hard work 😉